Dawn till Dusk
I went surfing today for the first time since I popped my shoulder. It was AMAZING out. This week in San Francisco, the stars aligned and it was a week meant for surfing. The weather has been spectacular. I was in the Linda Mar parking lot at 6:30 am this morning, the sun is just about to come up, and I am amazed. I am standing in the parking lot and I feel this strange sensation trickle across my face. I can't believe it...but it's warm air! At 6:30 am!
Normally, I stand half naked in the parking lot...freezing as I put on my wet suit. But this morning it was warm out!
Surf conditions have also been phenomenal recently. Incredibly glassy, beautiful shapes and consistent.
Jason and I started surfing and before 7 am, the surfline was already packed. I guess beautiful weather and perfect surf conditions make for a crowd. Oh well, it was worth it. I caught quite a few amazingly fun waves. Great drops, cut backs, bottom turns, and the rides were long. Almost every wave took me right onto the beach. We finally pulled ourselves out of the water a bit after 9 am. My body was completely exhausted but nothing makes me feel more alive then a morning of great surf (cheese).
I head to work and there is catered breakfast! Can life get any better? I put down about 14 pieces of bacon, 2 plates of eggs, 2 plates of potatoes, pineapple, juice and coffee. Yum Yum.
I'm sitting at my desk at work and I can't stop thinking about the amazing surf. I keep looking out the window at the blue skies and I start going crazy. I check the temperature..it's bloody 80 degrees out! It's almost December! I just can't take it anymore.
I sneak out of work.
And I head back to the beach.
My body is pooped but I'm just jonezin for more waves. I get back in the water at about 3 pm and conditions are still pretty good. I surfed until the sun went down about 2 hours later and now my body is really spent. Tough Friday wasn't it?
Can't wait to do it again tomorrow morning.